FAQWorldwide Impact
What products are cosmetics?
Podcasting operational change management inside of workflows to establish a framework. Taking seamless key performance indicators offline to maximise the long tail.
Is animal testing required?
Collaboratively administrate empowered markets via plug-and-play networks. Dynamically procrastinate B2C users after installed base benefits.
What are the alternatives?
Dramatically visualize customer directed convergence without revolutionary ROI.
Where is animal testing safe?
Keeping your eye on the ball while performing a deep dive on the start-up mentality to derive convergence on cross-platform integration.
Frequently Asked QuestionsEpoxy Resins
How should I store my materials?
Materials should be stored on pallets, between 18°C to 21°C, away from sources of heat and sunlight. It is not recommended to store materials on concrete or cold floors.
Why is my gelcoat/laminate still soft?
There are four main causes of bubbles forming on the surface of a part
1. Inaccurate weighing of the components
Take care to measure the components out accurately
Ensure the scales used are calibrated regularly.
2. Incomplete mixing of the components
If the components have not been thoroughly mixed, soft spots or bubbles can appear on the surface or within the part.
3. Air may have been entrapped during the mixing process, and not had time to disperse fully before the resin cured.
Given enough time, air entrapped through overly enthusiastic mixing would slowly come out of the mix; in practice the resin may start to thicken and trap the bubbles in first.
Why has my polyurethane gone lumpy?
The isocyanate component (Part B) of a polyurethane system has a freezing point around 20°C. As a result, if it is stored for long periods below this temperature it will crystallise.
It can be re-melted again by warming to around 60°C for 3/4 hour and then stirring.
You must not use it while still warm as this will inevitably lead to extremely short pot life and poor properties. It is essential that once re-melted, the isocyanate is allowed to cool back down to room temperature.
Freezing and re-melting has no adverse affects on the product.
Can I colour my polyurethane?
Polyurethanes can be coloured with special polyurethane pigments, which can be either liquid or powder.
When colouring flexible resins, we recommend you use powdered pigments as they affect the mechanical properties less.
Due to variations in the base colour of the polyurethane exact colour matches may be difficult to achieve.
Typical concentrations of pigment are 1% – 3% by weight
We do not recommend concentration of the pigment to be more than 3% as this can compromise the mechanical properties of the material.
Always perform a test specimen.
Can I paint my polyurethane?
Polyurethane parts can be successfully painted, but it is important that the surface is correctly prepared.
Check that the surface of the part does not have an oily feel to it; this is indicative of an incorrect resin/hardener mix, and will prohibit good adhesion; remake the part with the correct ratio.
Do not use a silicone release agent; this may mix with the resin and prohibit binding of the primer.
Allow the part to fully cure for at least 24 hours after moulding.
Thoroughly clean the part with an automotive grease and silicone wax remover, such as acetone.
Sand, using 240 grit paper, or sand-blast the surface of the part to etch the surface and give a ‘key‘.
Apply a thin polyurethane primer coat.
Frequently Asked QuestionsPolyurethane Casting Resins
How long does it take to get results?
You will use about half as much (by weight) of resin as you will fibreglass chopped-strand matting.
As a guide, for every square metre you will need about 280 grams for each millimetre thickness.
As an example, if you are producing a tool of area 0.75 sq m area, to a thickness of 3mm you will need 280 x 0.75 x 3 = 630 grams.
Why is my gelcoat/laminate still soft?
The time taken for epoxy resins to cure is dependent on the temperature.
If the workshop is too cold the pot life and curing times will be much longer. Below about 18°C curing is very slow indeed.
If the workshop is too warm the pot life and cure time will be shorter, and this may cause other problems.
We recommend you try to keep your workshop between 20°C and 25°C for best results. The workshop may be cooler at night than during the day and parts left overnight to cure may take longer.
Also ensure you are using the correct mixing ratio.
Why does the surface of my epoxy tool look ‘blushed‘?
A cloudy or ‘blushed‘ surface is indicative of too much moisture present during curing.
Remove these surface coats and apply them again in a drier atmosphere.
Why has my epoxy tool delaminated?
When building tools or parts that require several pours or layers it is important to ensure the layers bond together well.
The second and subsequent layers should be made when the previous layer is only slightly warm to the touch and tack-free.
Do not allow any moisture, for example damp air, to come into contact with the resin as it cures; this can cause it to ‘blush‘ or look cloudy and inhibits adhesion of subsequent layers.
A thin dusting of the surface with dry silica sand will also improve adhesion.
When casting resins, joints between tool sections should be ground and chemically etched to ensure a good bond.
Why has my epoxy tool cracked?
Epoxy tools are sensitive to sudden changes in temperature; they must be slowly warmed to moulding temperature and slowly cooled back down to room temperature.
Never take an epoxy tool out of an oven ‘to cool‘ as this will cause thermal shock.
If possible, apply thermocouples to the inside and surface of the tool and ensure the difference is never more than 30°C.
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